Hawaii. Finally. A few quick observations. Surf is good on the Big Island. Mellow Locals and helpful. Nothing like I was expecting from the stories. I could catch waves in a crowd. Everyone was pleasant. Of course this was in Oct. I understand it will change nov 1. 

Oahu: The North Shore. Too cool for me but I can see the attraction. Just drive down the road till you see a break you like and paddle out. Like kayaking in Chile. drive down the pan american and when you cross a river drive east until it become too difficult.

We arrived just in time for the biggest october swell in 30 -- count 'em, 30 years! Surfed in the bay at Puaena Point day one. Lots of classes in the bay and 40 duck dives to get three waves outside. I figured it out after watching from shore for a while, but was too tired to get back in the water. . . until the next day.

The Big Island. Surf is pretty good on the Big Island. I didn't like all the litter and run down feeling of all the public beaches. I did like the clear water and mellow crowds. This map says is all:

The Big Island

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The North Shore Oahu

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